Bayliner Buccaneer Tech questions
Tech Questions, Comments and Ideas for Buccaneers
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Marie writes:
I have a 1978 27' Bayliner Buccaneer that I inherited. I need to sell it. I am not having much luck searching for an approximate value. This boat has been out of the water for 4 years and has a 9.9HP outboard. It has a trailer, but the tires need replacing before it can be pulled. I've been offered $3,000.00 for it but have heard that it is worth more. I don't know whether to accept this offer or not. Can you give an approximate as is type value or give me an internet site to search?

JollymonJeff Replies:
There are a few things to consider when putting a fair market value on the boat.

1) Book Value
Yes, there is a "Blue Book" for boats. It is called Buc-Net. Their website can give you an idea of what the value may be. The address is

2) Local Market
Different parts of the country may have higher or lower values for the same boat. The Southeast or Florida typically have higher values than Minnesota or a mountain state. If you are in a part of the country where sailboats are common, it may be easier to sell, hence a better price. For example, I live on the South Shore of Long Island, N.Y., where sailboats are rare. A few miles away, on the North Shore, sailboats out number power boats 2:1. So, it was harder for me to find a buyer for my O'Day because I had the boat in the water, with out a trailer in a location that only has so many buyers for my type boat. If it was a considerably more expensive boat, It might have made sense to move it to the North Shore for the sale. Be aware that "Book Value" and market value are often not the same.
3) Condition
Is the boat useable as it is, or will it require work to become seaworthy? Is it clean and do all the accessories work? Is the outboard running well?
4) Extras
The outboard motor will affect the value quite a bit. How old is it? a recent outboard may account for 1/3 of the value of the boat. You have a trailer. Is it registered, inspected and ready to use? If so, that is a HUGE plus for many people. Being able to store it easily in the yard is a big motivator for most. What about equipment? Life jackets, lines, Marine radio, safety equipment like flares, anchors, ect.? You may get 1/2 of replacement cost of extras..
5) Time
You may be able to get "your" price, but that may require waiting for the right buyer. That could take time. Do you want it gone right away? Usually that means a lower price.

Talk to your accountant. Is donating the boat to an I.R.S. recognized charity like a school, religious group or other charity an option that makes sense for you? Often the charity will accept the donation at full "book value" which can be substancially higher than market value. The Buc-Net book says that a Bayliner Buccaneer 275 could be worth $8800-$11000. That is double what you might get from a cash buyer.

You don't say what model of Bucc or what make and year the outboard it is tough to assign a value based upon the info that you have given. If the boat and outoboard is in good condition, and the trailer only needs a tire or two, than perhaps $3500 may be fair. If the boat is in excellent condition, the outboard is only a few years old, the sails clean and not worn or ripped, fully functional (everything works) and the extras make it ready to go, you may be able to get $4500-$6000. If you have the time, perhaps advertise it at $6000 and see what happens. You can always lower your price, but
be realistic to market conditions. What are similar boats asking in your area?.
The internet is a great way to advertise the boat. There are dozens of sites that will allow you to advertise the boat for free. Some may be Bucc oriented, and some may be sailing sites local to your area. Posting a description and a few pics, inside and out should give you more qualified leads. The people that do contact you already have a good idea of what the boat is like. Feel free to direct leads to this or any of the Bucc sites for info, specs or opinions from the registry about Buccs in general. Don't let anyone tell you that a Bucc is a bad boat, and then give you some low ball offer, saying that you won't get anything for her. There are plenty of sailors willing to buy your boat at a fair price if she is usable.
Good luck finding her a new home.
Bob Floyd writes:
Jollymon, great looking floor in the salon. I have been thinking of installing a teak and holly floor in my Bucc also. Did you have an issue with the old deck not being completely flat and smooth? Do you have any suggestions for preparing the surface before installing the flooring? When you remove the vinyl you find plywood covered with fiberglass resin. The 240, like most Bucc's doesn't have a true bilge except all the way aft. I was also concerned about the durability of the new flooring from getting wet. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appriciated.
Jollymonjeff replies;
Thanks for the kudos Bob. It was a learning experience for me, thats for sure. I could not stand that Brady Bunch vinyl either. I found teak and holly marine plywood at a local marine lumber yard (doesn't
EVERY town have one?) for about $135 a 4'x8' sheet. After the laborious job of removing all the old flooring, I used auto body fille to bring the plywood/resin floor smooth and  within reason. The hardest area was by the gally where the difference was almost an inch and a half. I used layers of autobody filler with a little chopped glass for strength. I made a template from cardboard boxes, which I transfered to cheap plywood for a test fit. I used wall paneling that was cosmetically damaged from Home Depot for about $6 a sheet for my test piece. Satisfied with the fit, I traced the template onto the teak and holly sheet with pencil and cut with a jig saw. Even though it is marine plywood, take the extra step and epoxy coat the bottom and side portions of the new flooring. If water gets into the wood under the varnished top (floor?) it will discolor and be a pain to get nice again.
I gave the new floor 3 good coats of varnish before I epoxied it down becuase it was easier to work on. When actually epoxying it down, used a thicked epoxy or 3m5200 if you think you will NEVER want to get under there again. I thought it would be good to be able to remove the floor if I ever had to, so I used non marine construction adhesive.  I used cinder blocks to hold the floor down until the adhesive had dried properly.  Double and triple check measurements and holly (the light wood strips) alightment before cutting. The flooring is expensive. When lining up adjoining sections the strips must line up exactly or it will look horrible. I used teak moldings where the ne floor meets any bulkheads or such. It can get slippery when wet, so consider the idea of sprinkling a bit of sand in the varnish in some areas. The results look fantastick when done. A teak and holly sole really dresses up the boat. Good luck!

Note: The source I used for the floor is but there are others, and most will ship less than a full sheet if you need less. writes:
I live in Wisconsin and bought a 1975 Bucc 240 last week in Seattle. I need to build a trailer for it to bring it home this summer. I am very good at metal fabricating, but need the approximate deminsions or the boat's underbody and keel, or even better the demensions from another trailer for a Bucc 240. Can you help me?
Jollymonjeff replies:
I don't have much on file for the 240 except for the published spec sheet. This site gets about 40 hits a day. SOMEBODY out there has a 240. Can you help this sailor out?
Please email both
me and Doug with what ever info you have. writes:
We have a Bucc 275 with a Yanmar YSE12G diesel. Do you have any specific knowledge about this motor? We have been trying to get info, but have been unable to find much.
Jollymonjeff replies:
Try They have a great forum section and specs on just about any motor there is.
Rob writes:
I recently saw an ad for a 30' foot Buccaneer which caught my attention. Curious as to what a comparable boat would be. Catalina? Lighter of heavier construction? Any info would be appriciated.
I can be contacted at

JollymonJeff replies:
For documentation on the boat that may shed some light on how it's built and it's features, check out the owners manual on Kevin Bell's great site:`bell/ownersmanual.html and the specs on the main page here at the Buccaneer's Homeport.
As far as a personal opinion, as the owner of a Bucc 285C and previously an O'Day 23, I can tell you what I like and don't like about both.
The O'Day has a solid glass hull. I prefer a solid hull to the Buccaneer's balsa cored hull for its lower chance of problems. I have had to do repairs on the O'Day, replacing a section of core on the deck. And assisted a few others in repairs of hull cores on a Bucc 240.
Core repairs are common to balsa cored panels in general, not just the the O'Day, but also the Bucc.
The keel, which is internal (no keel bolts to worry about!, except for the Doug Petersen designs) offers no access. It is plywood and glassed over. If water ever gets in, it has no way to get out. A common owner retrofit is a bilge pump and access panel supplementing the factory one under the inboard engine. 
The O'Day had balsa cored decks that had turned to mush from years of fresh water leaks from deck fittings. The inner linner/core/outer deck left no way to repair the damage. I had to cut the inner liner and fix it from below. The Buccaneers use a  marine plywood deck that is a rot resistant, if a little heavy.
Another easily fixed issue is port light leaks. The ports are plexiglass with silicone sealant in plastic frames. The silicone should be replaced every few years as preventive maintainance.
I would say the Buccs compare favorably with Catalinas and Hunters from the same period, perhaps leaning more towards Hunters. They are VERY roomy for their length and can be obtained cheaply given their size. They have great headroom. Like any 20 year old boat, it should be looked at by someone knowledgeable to spot the small problems that may be bargining chips and the large ones that tell you to move on.
They are a lot to fun to sail, stable and spacious. They are great coastal cruisers but not generally thought of for open water crossings. They are not the fastest boats (again, with the exception of the doug Petersen designs) and they don't track as well as boats with a longer keel, but with a 3 foot draft they can gunkhole where the other boats can't get don't be surprised if you find yourself at some beautiful secluded anchorage with the place to yourself...even if it does take you a while to get there.
Anyone else have thoughts on this? Send in your comments!
Peter writes:
     I have just acquired a Bucc 240, which I must move. the manual says to lower the mast towards the stern, but not how. Is it difficult, can it get out of control? The mast step is hinged both ways, it looks like it would be easier to do it towards the bow using the boom as a gin pole and the main sheet system as a block and tackle. Does anyone have any advice? I have never stepped any mast bigger than one for a dingy.
Jollymonjeff replies:
     I have raised and lowered the mast on my 285 several times and both ways. The way that seems to work best for me is to go aft with a halyard, using a block at the boat attached to a cleat and running aft to a sheet winch. I can control the slippage on the winch when lowering the mast and the winch is effective in raising it once you get the mast tip up a few feet.You need someone else to help raise it the first few feet or recieve it the last few feet. I have done it with just 2 people but 3 is better.Going forward instead of aft may be better for you depending on how the boat is berthed. I am stern to, and have room behind me on the dock.           Although I have never heard of it happening, I am concerned about using the boom as a gin pole and having the goosneck (the part where the mast attaches to the boom) put enough pressure on the mast section to dent it or even collapse the mast at that point. Think about all the pressure, when the mast is low and your raising it, that would be on that fitting. Then picture how hard it would be economically and otherwise to have to replace the mast should such a failure occur. If the fitting itself fails and the mast drops there is the potential for damage and injury. 
     As far as things that can go wrong, keep extra pins for the chainplates and extra cotter rings. The "plink" sound you here when you drop one overboard just as you need to pop it in is not funny. Try for a day when there is nobody on the water. I am in a 5pmh zone and still had a Sea Ray go by on plane as I am trying to get the forestay key in. The boat is bobbin like a cork and the stay is being pulled all over the place from the wiggling mast.
Good Luck!